Restaurant Review: Dolce Vita

Europhiles in Redondo Beach hungry for the laid back feel of a European café but lacking the time and budget for a transatlantic flight can now revel in the pleasures of Dolce Vita.

Escaping the brisk afternoon air we're greeted with warmth by Maureen, a waitress whose enthusiasm and passion for Dolce Vita is infectious.  She seats us at a large wooden table in the corner and pours us each a glass of their refreshing lemon-mint-cucumber water, which is a refreshing palate cleanser.

The menu takes you on a tour of Europe, emphasizing German dishes such as bratwurst, spaetzle and Schnitzel, but also touching down in Italy with bruschetta and in France with tarte flambée from the Alsace region.

A cup of Dolce's cauliflower soup ($4.50) features delicate florets and just a touch of cream. It's served in a large mug, which I take as an invitation to pick up and drink to the last drop.

The crostini ($6.50) is speck ham, Raclette cheese and fresh herbs, melded in a beautiful goo atop slices of freshly baked baguette.

The California salad ($11) is an unremarkable but satisfying blend of wild arugula and baby greens topped with grilled eggplant and zucchini, caramelized onions and fresh goat cheese in balsamic vinaigrette.

The star of the meal is the aforementioned tarte flambée. Alsatians know this dish, a specialty of the German-bordered Alsace region of France, as flammekueche, which translates to "baked in the flames." Bread dough is thinly rolled out in a circle and topped with crème fraîche and, traditionally, onions and bacon, then baked in a wood-fired oven. This version is featured on the menu as the flambée original ($9.50), along with seven other unique creations.

We decide to go with the flambée prosciutto ($12.50); fresh prosciutto di Parma, tomato, mozzarella, arugula and shaved Parmesan sitting atop wonderfully thin, crispy crust that's been slathered with crème fraîche. Think of it as the refined younger sister to pizza, the crust delicately flaky and chewy, the freshness of the ingredients not overpowered by tomato sauce. 

Desserts here are a must. The day we visited the menu featured house-made apple strudel and plum cake, but we take Maureen's suggestion and go with a berry bread pudding ($4). It's not too sweet and strikes the perfect balance between bread and custard. Order it with one of their cappuccinos ($3), which are robust and frothy, the ideal finish to a sensational meal.

Dining at Dolce Vita is a transporting experience. Like many cafés you'll find throughout Europe, the space doubles as a gourmet fine foods store, and it's fun to watch people stop in to browse from their large selection of imported artisanal cheeses and meats, or simply enjoy an espresso and something sweet.

Tables on the sidewalk complete the European flair, allowing patrons to enjoy the sun, or when it gets a bit chilly, to cuddle up under one of the cotton blankets Dolce provides. It's a subtle touch, making you feel as if you're on vacation thousands of miles away, yet at the same time, right at home.

Dolce Vita is located at 1718 S. Catalina Ave. Open Monday-Friday 9 a.m.-8 p.m.; Saturday-Sunday 8 a.m.-8 p.m. Telephone: (310) 844-7462.  Metered street parking.