My Perfect Place

The sun isn’t shining. The clouds are not defined. There is nothing white and puffy above our heads. There are only shades of grey.

I haven’t checked the surf report or the water temperature. It’s pointless. The rain sets the tone of the ocean and unfortunately the water quality. Although the rain will continue tomorrow, the is all-important for surfers.

This isn’t my prime time. But that is okay. My day will come.

But until then…

All surfers have a perfect place they wish they could go, or wish existed somewhere on the planet.

Mine is a tropical place, a place where I know every detail down to the last grain of sand.

Here I can surf or stand-up paddleboard…and not get hassled. I can swim in the cyan-blue water and see the ocean floor. I can sit on the beach and scoop up shells of every shape and size.

I can watch the white billows of clouds against a powder-blue sky.

I can see the ocean life in a flurry of hues and admire the natural beauty.

This is what I see when the veil of grey has lifted from my eyes.

I love this place. Here the landscape is lush and alive with nature like only a tropical island can be.

I dig my toes into the warm sand and love how the fine texture isn't dusty. As I look out across the ocean I see a perfect wave, a fun, flirty wave. It beckons me.

There is no need for a wetsuit here and I don’t have one. But I do have a surfboard. So I paddle out.

The water is warm without being anything less than refreshing. Beads of water glow on my skin.

When I reach the surf break, so does another perfect set. I turn around on my board and ride the wave to shore. I am impossibly content and as relaxed as I can be. But I am having a blast.

My perfect place is untouched and beyond the word beautiful and nearly indescribable.

And if rain falls upon me here, the water feels like nothing less than a perfect shower. When the rain stops, I lie down in the sand and dry off with the rays of the warm sun.

Yeah, I love tropical locations. The more secluded the better. And when I can’t jet away to a beautiful island, I close my eyes and visit this one.

My perfect place.